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 Textiles of the future in Futuris智能纺织品 |
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山东斯汀
[博客]
[个人文集]
头衔: 海归准将
声望: 学员
性别:  年龄: 51
加入时间: 2005/09/14
文章: 679
来自: 某国驻华使馆
海归分: 106854
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作者：山东斯汀 在 海归酒吧 发贴, 来自【海归网】 http://www.haiguinet.com
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKDOxcU5h-4
Now textiles like u’ve never seen them before, in Futuris. It's the fashion show season, and in parallel Paris has been hosting the largest Textiles Show in the world : Première Vision. 742 exhibitors from thirty countries presented their offerings for the Autumn Winter 2007 / 2008 season. And this year too, some special guests: so called "intelligent fabrics". 现在这里的服装都是你以前没有见过的。现在是时装展销季节，同时巴黎举办了世界上最大规模的纺织品展销会：超级视觉。来自30个国家的742个参展商展出了2007-2008秋冬季服装。今年，一个特别的客人是：智能服装。
Textiles, for example, that have built-in protection against staining. "If you imagine normal cloth being flat, withnano technologies(纳米技术) the cloth takes a form a little like mountains. The structure's invisible of course.
例如，纺织品被制造成一种杜绝着色的设计。设想一下，普通布料非常的平整，含有纳米技术，布料有一种类似山峰的结构。当然，结构是肉眼看不到的。
And dirt can't stick to a material like that, it runs off. So here I'll put a bit of ketchup on and I'll take some water and there, you see, it's a white cloth and you can rinse off the dirt immediately." 污垢不能附着到这种材料上，它会流掉。例如，我把番茄汁撒到上面，然后冲上水，你会看到，污垢被立即冲走了，布还是那么的洁白。
Stain resistant materials, bacteria resistant materials, mosquito resistant materials, materials that can absorb smell or reduce perspiration, materials that can measure your heartbeat or your breathing pattern… 这种材料抗污，抗菌，防蚊虫，能吸收气味，减少排汗，这种材料还可以测量你的心跳和呼吸。
textiles that are totally impermeable, textiles that are ultra absorbant. cosmetic- textiles that moisten the skin or apply perfume; the world of intelligent textiles is expanding and a multitude of European research centres are part of it. 材料可以是完全不可渗透，材料也可以超级可以渗透，具有化妆功能的纺织品可以湿润皮肤，也可以采用香水材料。智能纺织品的世界正在逐步扩大，更多的欧洲研究机构参与其中。
Here at Centexbel in Belgium, not far from Liege, scientists are dreaming up the next generation of intelligent or functional textiles. Prototype maker Martine Degueldre's job is to transform these dreams into reality. 比利时的Centexbel纺织品研究中心，距离Liege市不远，那里的科研人员正在构思下一代的智能或功能纺织品，模具师 Martine Degueldre 的工作就是转换这些梦想成为现实。
Here we have a pullover that's entirely knitted. The keyboard is supple. It enables the user to send a range of different commands. It was conceived for handicapped people: to allow them for example, with a given code, to open a garage door, to switch on the television.
这里有一件套杉是完全针织的，键盘是柔软的，它允许使用者发送一系列不同的命令，它主要为残疾人设计，允许它们使用特定的密码去开启车库门或转换电视频道。
We've also got undergarments that allow you to monitor different body functions: breathing, heartbeat and so on, using electrodes that are in direct contact with the body.
我们也开发了一种内衣可以通过用电极接触身体，用来监测不同的身体特征，呼吸，心跳等等。
We can also insert fibre optics into carpet. They're integrated in the production process, and to make the carpets luminous. They can be used for emergency exits, for example, if there's a power cut... or just to create pretty patterns within the carpet.
我们也可以把光纤维植入地毯，它们一般在生产过程中被植入，使地毯发光。它们可以被使用于紧急撤离，例如，当停电的时候。或在地毯里产生一种美丽的图案。
We've also used fibre optics in knitting. This creates the possibility of luminous knitwear. It can be used for outdoor safety clothing, or it can be stuck on walls and ceilings for decorative effects.
我们也把光纤维应用到针织方面。这就产生了发光针织衣服的可能。它可以用在户外安全衣服，或放到墙壁上或天花板上起装饰效果。
The most complex of these prototypes is probably the textile keyboard, which can also function as a simple calculator. Jean Léonard has spent two years working on it the key is the interaction of materials that do and don't conduct electricity: 这些类型中最复杂的莫过于纺织品键盘，它或许起到计算器的作用。Jean Léonard花费了2年时间研究它。关键是材料的交互作用导电与否。
"In addition to the conventional materials, which are electrical insulators, we've used metallic fibres that do conduct electricity. The principle is that when you don't apply pressure, there's no contact between two conducting layers. And when you apply pressure, you create a contact between the two layers.
不同于常规材料，过去的金属纤维材料是导电的，而我们使用的材料是绝缘的。原则上当你不加压力的时候，2层之间就不会接触。当你施加压力的时候，在2层之间就产生了1种接触。
In addition to this, there's a small microelectric component which has been miniaturised as much as possible so that it disrupts the cloth as little as possible, because the goal is to preserve the characteristics of textiles - suppleness and comfort."
除此之外，这里还有一个小的微电子元件，它被做的最小化，尽可能的不去破坏衣服的结构。因为我们的目标就是保存衣服固有的特性-柔软和舒服。
Suppleness and comfort, those are the watchwords for functional and intelligent clothing. Yvette Rogister is in charge of the microbiology lab at the center. She unlocks the secrets of textiles using this giant microscope. Her research helps build an understanding of how fibres react to the presence of certain nano particles -for example cosmetic nano particles that release perfumes into clothes.
柔软和舒服是功能和智能衣服的目标。Yvette Rogister负责研究中心的微生物实验室。借用于这种巨大的显微镜，他揭开了纺织品的秘密。他的研究有助于理解纤维与纳米相互作用。例如：化装纳米粒子能够向衣服里释放香味。
These are microcapsules which contain a perfume that's integrated within the fibres that make up the cloth. What we've been looking at here is how uniformally the microcapsules are spread across the cloth, and also we wanted to have an idea of their dimensions.
这些包含香水的微胶囊被植入了用来做衣服的纤维中，我们考虑的就是如何在衣服里均衡的排列这些微胶囊，我们想弄清最理想的他们的尺寸。
And then after the material's been used, we wanted to see how the microcapsules react -they're supposed to explode and release their perfume. And in fact what we've seen here is that there are indeed microcapsules that have exploded and thus released their perfume. 这种材料被应用以后，我们想理解这些微胶囊如何作用。它们应该是爆破并且释放他们的香味。并且事实上也果然如此。
At the Institute Francais du Textil et Habillement, outside Lyon intelligent textiles are tested for resistance against heat, flames tearing, liquids Engineers work on several europe wide projets and also invent their own textiles for the future.
在Francais du Textil et Habillement研究院，智能服装被实验了防热，防火，防撕扯，防液体的实验。工程师们致力于多方面的研究，也发明了他们自己的未来纺织品。
Once the concept has been established, the cloth is modeled to a chosen design and added to a virtual collection of tomorrow's fashion.
概念一旦被接受，布料就被设计成可供选择的式样，同时增加的新式样的实质性的收集。
For dreams to become a reality, you need a plasma machine like this. Here, in a vacuum, textiles are put in contact with different gases -oxygen, nitrogen, fluoride, or ammonia.
为了梦想成为现实，你需要一台这样的等离子机。在真空状态下，纺织品被放进去接触不同的气体。氧气，氮气，氟化物，氨气。
In this way researcher Jaques Maguin changes the textile properties. Fluorides for example make normally absorbant cotton impermeable, while nitrogen makes normally resistant materials absorbant.
用这种方法，研究员Jaques Maguin改变了纺织品的特性。氟化物可以使正常吸收的棉花变的不可渗透，氮气可以抵制材料吸收。
"Nitrogen will separate off and try to impregnate itself in the textile. So using nitrogen gas you can make a kind of water plasma which will attach itself to the surface. And when you put water next to this there's a very strong affinity, and that makes a material that absorbs very easily, which is good for clearning materials, or for absorbing sweat, or for sticky materials or for printable materials.
氮气可以单独的灌输到纺织品中，所以用氮气你能制造一种水离子区，并且依附于材料表面。所以，当你把水撒到上面，会有一种非常强力的亲和力。使材料具有很强的吸收力，有利于清洁材料，或吸汗。或制成粘性材料或印刷材料。
On the other hand, fluoride gas makes cotton water resistant, so when it rains it’s impermeable but still comfortable.
另一方面，氟化物气体可以使棉花防水，当下雨的时候，纺织品会变的不可渗透但同时很舒服。
In these workshops a European programme to make threads of the future is being researched. Christophe Angelloz is developing polypropylene thread that resists high temperatures. The polypropylene is mixed with chemical micro particles whose composition is a commercial secret. The mixture is pummelled, melted, stretched and woven into yarn.
在这些工厂，制作未来丝线的程序正在研制当中。Christophe Angelloz开发了一种聚丙稀丝线可以抵制高温。聚丙稀与某种成分为商业秘密的微离子相混合，这种混合体被压实，融化，伸展然后纺织成纱线。
"It's all polypropylene. But by changing the manufacturing conditions -like the extrusion temperature, the weaving speed, the stretching tension, you can optimize the thread production."
这些都是聚丙稀，但是通过改变制造工艺，例如排出的温度，纺织速度，拉伸张力，你能够最优化丝线的生产。
Threads which, like others made at the centre, will now undergo testing to see if they might be useful in the creation of the new intelligent textiles of the future.
丝线和一些研究中心另外的产品，都将经受严格的测试，以便知道是否在未来的智能纺织品的制造当中是否有用。
汉语部分完全自己瞎翻译的，希望各位老师找找错误。
作者：山东斯汀 在 海归酒吧 发贴, 来自【海归网】 http://www.haiguinet.com
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 Textiles of the future in Futuris智能纺织品 -- 山东斯汀 - (8175 Byte) 2007-7-24 周二, 17:13 (1739 reads)
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